Almost as I had planned, I booked a two day/1 night trip to the 'desert' with the main attraction being riding camels. As with all trips and places, it was much cheaper and very easy to book a trip once I was in the city (especially as the hostel will practically do it for you). It cost 650 dirham, which included dinner, breakfast, drive, camels, night accomodation, star gazing, and a camp fire (tips, water, and lunches not included). After I had signed up, four others from the same hostel signed up, which worked out really well as we became a little group of our own. There was one Peruvian and three siblings, two sisters and a brother from Australia, and me in our group. It happened to be one of the busiest nights at the camp with about sixty visitors where there is usually twenty or thirty maximum, but it didn't seem full.
It was a couple of early mornings, but I was awake by five and listened to the wake up call (530) and the first call to prayer (0600) that morning. I accidently nodded off until 630, which meant my shower, packing, and breakfast were a little more hasty than intended. As we were off for only one night, I brought only a few things in my two smaller bags, leaving my pack at the hostel. We were picked up at seven and after getting another group were seemingly off. We made it about five minutes out before we stopped and pilled out of the tour bus. What followed next was the seamless shuffle of all the tourists, as well as a local old man (still not sure where he fit in)...by that I mean, an army-like, on-the-bus off-the-bus episode. As everyone got shuffled into buses depending on their group size and selected tour (one or two nights), our crew was left standing on the sidewalk. To me this seemed all too normal so we waited, mostly patiently.
At last we were directed towards a gold van, which turned out to be probably the best scenario. For the most part, we were free runners (and heavy on the gas pedal so usually "first") and there was only five of us rather than the groups of 16 in each bus! Only realizing on the second day, we stuffed ourselves in the back rows (3 in the back, two in the middle) forgoing the front passenger seat until I asked if I could sit up there on the second morning. The only downside to said excursions was that you spend a good chunk of each day seated in a vehicle (even the three day version). Nevertheless, the views that we were afforded were worth the slight nuisance (although we got rather lazy). I had initailly scoffed when I heard that the landscapes in Morocco were impressive; however that they are.
On both days we covered approximately 400 kilometres. After getting a puncture in the front left tire speedily repaired, we headed out of Marrakech and started ascending the Atlas mountains. Despite being renowned for its desert, Morocco has snow and even a ski resort! It had been a little chilly in the morning, but by mid morning it was nice and toasty even with the wind when we popped out of the van at rest stops. Of all the groups, I'm pretty sure we bought the least souvenirs and trinkets - limiting ourselves to water and chocolate. Along the way, we also stopped at a traditional Berber village, which has been used as a movie set since Lawrence of Arabia to the Game of Thrones. We had a great guide who showed us the insides of one of the homes - sheep and all - before we scampered up to the top for some more impressive views.
For me the most impressive views were those of the mountains that looked as if they were crumbling to pieces, which I think they are, but ever so slowly. It looks as if they were smashed and massive blocks of rock are tumbling down, frozen in time. The pass we took included 19 kilometres of 'dangerous' winding road through them. The entire drive was only two lanes with tons of passing motor vehicles - us included - anything from grand taxis (old Mercedes cars) to dangerous goods, fuel carrying trucks. Oh and the safety barriers were less than reassuring, when they were there and still standing. That being said, I think my fear of heights has lessened as looking down the cliffs as we sped on wasn't completely terrifying, just a tad worrisome. Our driver, Houcine (I might have forgotten to ask till the second day) was very adept at speeding along the roads, and despite the one near headon collision with an old semi, I had faith in his skills from the get go (which considering the drive was reassuring). Also talking to people who went on the same trip, or the longer one, had less than stellar reviews of their drivers so I guess we lucked out.
By five o'clock we were nearing our destination with one last pit stop for water, and chocolate. We arrived first and hopped on the camels with relative ease - they are much trickier than horses, at first. Having become "part of the staff" as the default translator, I got to get up first. You mount the saddle while they are seated, but when they stand up it is like an amusement park. When they say hold on, they mean hold on. First, you go far back as the camel lifts his front legs, then all the forward as he lifts his rear legs, and finally tipping forward you can settle into place. Once our crew was settled, off we trotted towards the camp. The sun was starting to set and the moment that it was going behind the mountains we stopped and turned around to take in the view. After about an hour and a half ride, we had made it to the camp. It was then that I realized I had paid for something similar to what I usualy get paid to do - drive for long distances, wait, get on/off the bus, get and stay up late, be fed, and sleep in tents; nevertheless, it was worth it.
We briefly settled into our tent, also conveniently arranged for five - rather swanky berber tent with mattresses, blankets, a bulb, an outlet (not sure if it worked), flooring, and a door - before going into the main dinning tent for tea. I'm not sure if I have yet to talk about tea yet, but it is quite the 'thing' in Morocco. Essentially, it is black tea steeped with mint leaves and then a good chunk of sugar is added (heave on the chunk). It is rather tasty and I would venture to say addictive. In order to balance out this new sugar intake, I ended up drinking my coffee with milk only. Once we had filled up on tea and talking with our guide, we were served bread and tajine in a very large pot. Despite being the smallest group around a tajine, we finished all the food to the last drop. Indulging in some chocolate back in the tent.
The rest of the evening we spent outside, first around a bonfire where the guides sang berber songs and then laying on a blanket gazing at the stars. I tried to follow along with the conversation in Spanish between the guide and the Peruvian, I did managed to understand the topics - berber & technology (solar power, cellphones), Islam & marriage (1 versus 4 brides), and the tensions between Morocco and Algeria in the Sahara, amongst others. Finally at midnight, we decided to pack it in between being chilly (despite being wrapped up in two blankets and huddled together) and somewhat tired. At least we lucked out with a dry and clear night, others were not so lucky!
As the sparky morning person I can be, I was awake before the 630 wakeup call and got to annoying provide the reveille for our tent. As we got up and packed up, it was a quick breakfast of bread and jam with coffee or tea, before we set off on the camels back to our awaiting, golden chariot. Some of the local kids were around trying to get coins from the tourists, but as I've been avoiding giving children any money and the others didn't seem too intent, they only got a few items of food the others had around. Once we pilled back in the vehicle we were off, back in the direction of Marrakech. For those of you with a map, we made it south of Ouarzazate.
The drive back was just as interesting as the drive there, although I was now in the front seat and, although not overly chatty, talked to the driver as we drove back. Most of the van was asleep for a good portion of the drive and he asked how much sleep well all got (six hours). After he scoffed, I failed to mention that if I wasn't being polite and sitting in the front seat, I too most likely would have nodded off. Then again he was rather tired and exhausted having not had a day off in over six months - apparently common in the tourism industry in Morocco. Even, jokingly I think, offered me the keys so that I could drive for a while. Although tempted, I decided not to volunteer too enthousiatically.
During the drive, we stopped a movie studio that had also been the site of several movie scenes (none that were memorable), but it was interesting to see them in person. We eventually stopped for lunch at the beginning of the snow line in the Atlas mountains. It offered a good view and a satisfying meal. Once I had called him over (knowing names is so very useful), we were about to set off when he noticed that the tire that had initially been punctured was now flat. While they set to changing it (not my speciality), we wondered off to see if there was a convenience store nearby as we were on a quest for chocolate. When he had asked if we wanted to leave, I had responded with yes, but with a stop for chocolate - at least we provide entertainment! Once the tire was changed, we set off and finally found a place with chocolate bars (milka!) and water, which happened to be beside the butcher's with a fresh cows head and goat carcas on display.
We were off once again! Eventually, he figured out I was learning and knew some Arabic took it upon himself to cover things as we past them - for example: oued means river and there were a lot of dry, river banks with that sign. Apparently in a couple months, I could be fluent (enough) and in a year or so have a handle on the berber languages. The latter was a common theme, that I ought to learn the berber languages (only three of them) - I'm not sure if it was an inside joke that I missesd or a sincere idea. Throughout the trip we listened to his varied, music taste, there was a mix of Celine Dion, Justin Bieber, James Blunt, Cheb Khaled (after I asked), unknown Arab music, and select Spanish hits. The selection was a hit and often started a few sing-a-longs and/or laughs. It even resulted in the purchase of a CD at the market the next day - an Arabic song about Al Pacino. It was a smooth journey the rest of the way, other than needing a bathroom break where were none (I refrained from asking as everyone wanted to get back).
On our drive back throughout Marrakech, Houcine took us by the King's palaces which was neat as I didn't end up seeing them any other time. We also managed to hit 'rush hour' which was entertaining and a little maddening. After lumbering out of the van, rather commatosely, we said farewell and gave him a good tip (I'm too Canadian to not tip for services well rendered and hard work). He gave me his number on a business card, but as with being friendly and smiling, further interactions can be seen in the wrong light, which can be rather frustrating and restrictive. Overall, despite being relatively expensive (in total 135 CAD for two days), I think we all enjoyed it and now can say we have ridden camels in the Saharan Desert (well, at least very close by).
I am now off to see my first apartment in Amman. It is a three bedroom apartment with two other female expats with decent rent (250 JD/400 CAD per month) in a good area; however, it is still far away from school and unless I can figure out a good way of commuting (i.e. determining a bus route) I am hesitant to take it. I will work on the entry for Essaouira, Casablanca, a recap on Spain & Morocco and the first for Amman in the next few days; however, I will busier with school preparations (registration, indoc, placement exam, and classes).
-Alex
PS: as I only brought my camera on this expedition, I do not have any photos to share at this time.
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Thanks for leaving your message! -Alex