Lexpatriate: The Wonder of Petra

This article is primary about my first time in Petra during March 2014; however, over my time in Jordan I visited the site many more times so some parts are an amalgamation of all those times.

As with my theme to take one "big" trip per month of my semester - theoretically leaving enough time for my studies - in order to get away from life in Amman and profit from my stay here in Jordan, I decided to come to Petra to another self-made long weekend. For those who may worry about my academic success, when I say long weekend that involves skipping one class and this week it was a test that I took in advance. Compared to previous semesters and years where my studies have been less than stellar, I have been putting quite a number of hours into studying; albeit I cannot guarantee my marks will wholly reflect those efforts.

In any case, after finishing class on Wednesday and stopping for a coffee break with some of my fellow classmates and friends, I headed down to the south bus station in Amman. Until now that has been the longest - and priciest, but fair according to the meter - taxi ride through the city as I went from the northern tip to the south edge. Once we made it to the bus station, my cab driver was nice enough to tell me what I needed to ask for (Wadi Musa, the town beside Petra), but was sorry as he wasn't sure in what direction to point me. So after I hopped out and long enough to note I was the only foreigner, I stopped to put my sunglasses on long enough for the driver of the bus to Petra (seems they've given up on Wadi Musa) to come over to me and led me to his bus. As it was already pretty full, I didn't have to wait long to get going which was nice. There are no set schedules, rather buses leave when they are full or if at the end of their scheduled runs when they give up on waiting for more passengers.

We were quite packed into the bus - read, mini bus with a dozen seats - with one Bedouin fellow sitting backwards on the driver's armrest area. I sat beside a friendly women from Petra who owns a clothing shop in town and drove me to my hostel - which I later realize was about a 300 metre walk from the bus station, if I had not been quite so disoriented. As I tend to travel alone and as locally as I can, or am comfortable with, she asked why I did not "take one of those big tours". I tried to explain to her that that just was not my style and that I would much rather prefer travelling this way, inspite of it's odditites. This came after we had our midway stop and I had gotten off the bus to go into the store and buy juice, as well as find the washroom and stretch my legs outside. Eventually, I realized why she had asked me when we first pulled in if I wanted juice when we had stopped - all the women on the bus had given her son money so that he could go buy juice for them all without them having to leave the bus. In any case, I had no issues at the pit stop - starring be the norm - and even had a nice chat with the Bedouin chap from the bus as I waited in line. I'm not sure if I ended up in the "men's" lineup, but the only other females in the store were military or police and went straight to the front to pay - I wasn't sure if it was a occupational or gender priviledge.

Once I arrived at my hostel - Petra Gate Hostel - I was warmly welcomed and subsequently asked if my mother had just dropped me off, which I found slightly entertaining. Compared to the earlier comment on my "inappropriate" mode of transporation and travel, I was complimented on my attire as being quite in line with Jordanian standards and that I must fit in nicely in Amman; however, in Petra it is all but impossible not to stand out as a tourist. Firstly, the area is small enough that everyone knows every family and that news spreads faster than the wind blows. Secondly, in a town solely focused on the tourism industry, everyone is on the lookout for potential business. That day, as with most, I had been wearing a maxi (floor length) skirt, a crew neck tee, a light shrug, a scarf, and boots...oh and my 'wedding ring'. After welcoming me in and inquiring about my travels (or life in Amman), I was shown the great views from their rooftop terrace. It was a great welcome as I was able to watch the sunset over Petra, which seems to come out of nowhere when you're travelling through the flat countryside. After grabbing a bite to eat, I hit the hay as I wanted to get an early start the next day.

After getting up, having breakfast, and shaking the cob-webs out, I headed down to Petra's entrance. It is a couple kilometres downhill and was good as I was able to pick up some supplies for the day and a turkish coffee. A major benefit of being a student in Jordan is that the entrance fee to Petra is more of a gesture than anything else as we pay 1 JD, the resident fee, compared to the rather steep 50JD/1 day, 55JD/2 days, 60JD/3 days. That being said, it is definitely worth it and as it is a major selling point for Jordan, it is understandable why they incite such high costs. Also to note that if you are only coming to Jordan to visit Petra, rather than staying in the country, it is even more expensive. Not to criticize or judge those coming on large tours or simply for the day, but more that there is so much to be seen that is missed by those who get "hussled" through the sites. At the same time, the lack of tour groups along the "back" trails, means much nicer, and quieter, experiences for the rest of us. Although there was one rather hardy group of German tourists who definitely went off the beaten track. Apparently it is a particular type of tour group who study and are more interested in learning who travel from German, which is a definite change from the groups who solely walk to the first main site and turn back.

Over the two days I spent travelling through Petra some of the best times were spent where there were few to no other people around. To access most of these sites require some, or many, stairs, as well as some good cardiovascular effort. Not only do you get to feel like a kid in a really amazing playground, but you get to see things that are not in the brochure, but are equally (if not more) amazing, as well as seeing the typical sites from alternate (and less obstructed) views. Another bonus of making it to these "end of the world" spots - well, end of an hour's huffing - is that you are invited to have tea with a local bedouin. There is no fixed price to these seatings and most times they do not even ask outright for money, but each time I or a group of us would sit down we would typically leave a few JDs. Despite having a general familiarity with the culture, I realized after the first day that I should proably not start by asking "how much" as soon as someone invited me to sit - thinking about it now, it seems like a very Western (or North American) attitude. The one time we were invited for tea and were lacking in change, we shared our bread and snacks with the familly, which seemed to go down pretty well also - the girl seemed quite famished and keep wanting more bread to her mother's dislike.

There are two styles that are most common to see the Bedouin men adhere to - one for the older generation and one for the younger. The older men tend to wear the red and white keffiyeh, particular to Jordan, drapped over their head and shoulders with long robes that are usuallly beige or brown. Underneath they have loose trousers and some sort of undershirt. The younger generation has a quite striking, but very different look. Whether influenced by the West, tourism, or local influences, no one seems to be sure. Nevertheless, they adore scarves of less typical colours (black, brown, red, white) wore tightly around their heads. They usually wear jeans and long sleeve shirts with either sneakers or sandals. Most of them have curly, black hair that is long or short, but tucked away underneath their headscarves, as well as highly coiffed beards along their jawlines. One of the most striking features is the kohl (or kohla) that they wear on their eyes. Depending on who you ask, if is either made from a glue-like plant, olive oil, or chemically (China made, store bought products). According to stories it is to protect the eyes from the sun, but as someone mentioned to me none of the older generation wears any kohl. So the origins and purposes behind it still remain a mystery. Some, more than others, seem to be funneling in their inner Johny Depp, Pirates of the Carraebean, looks. Overall, we were all impressed by their looks and style (the guy travellers included!

I was hesitant to ask the local Bedouins if I could photograph them as traditionally photographs were not desired. However, over time and with the increase of tourism, there must be thousands if not million of their portraits, to a point where most of those who work with many tourists accept as a fact of life (and increased profit).

Both days that I was there, there were many Arabs to which I think the Bedouin were less than pleased. Not only do they have a harder time selling, but the most widely prevailant attitudes towards the Bedouin is much less than favourable and is quite apparently when you see their interactions. On the afternoon of the first day, I was having a snack of my homemade trail mix - raw pumpkin seeds, raw almonds, spiced popped corn (not popcorn), chocolate covered raisins, coconut shreds, and dried cranberries - one of the young Bedouin girls came and sat next to me. She half heartedly tried to sell me a set of postcards and once she realized I could speak some Arabic, she firstly giggled and then proceeded to comment on how many Arabs were present with a slight tone of disgust and disappointment. Finallly realizing I was being kind of rude - "chway chway" - step by step, I will get there - I offered what was left of my trailmix; I had kept eating in front of her and her brother. It wasn't much left, but she happily took the bag and tucked it away in her bag. I'm not sure how much they make by selling postcards and trinkets, but they (the Bdul Bedouins, a local tribe) seem awfully poor; her boots and clothing were falling to pieces and I'm pretty sure she had not attended the village school as they are more profitable when they are selling goods to tourists. That being said, there are some locals (at least naturalized locals) and other Bedouin who seem to be better off - there are a number of 2014 truckes around town (keeping the year stickers on is a source of pride).

A bonus to travelling solo is that locals are more likely to approach you and actually have a conversation, even when they half heartedly try and sell you something. I had a good chat with one Bedouin who owned a camel and donkey, as well as a house in the Bedouin village (seperate from the town) and a cave in Petra. Accordingly to him, despite the so-called luxuries in his house, he said that he much prefered staying in his cave. By cave, I mean a relatively well set-up place with mattresses (his words) and a good enough wifi connection to skype. However, a downside to being a solo female travelling is that I am much more hesitant (with good reason?) to accept invitations for tea...in caves. That being said, two girls from France and I went for tea in a cave on my second day just at sunset with a Bedouin and his mother. Having left the site late after our tea, security seems to be rather loose with one person watching the - open - gate and all the tourist police having long left. Despite travelling alone, by staying in hostels - as I think I mentioned before - is a perfect place to meet fellow travellers. Throughout my two days, we would occasional bump into each other along our trails and sometimes join each other for a meal, as well as give each other tips on where and what to visit. It is a nice balace of meeting people, socializing, and being tied to no schedule or will but your own.

In terms of legality and permission to live in Petra, I have heard conflicting reports. It would seem that officially they (Bedouin folk) are not allowed; hence the development of and expulsion to the Bedouin Village from caves in Petra. However, talking with many of them it would seem that this is highly ignored and that they at least have some sort of residence within Petra. On my hikes through the hills, I passed by a number of caves that were either obviously houses or looked to be easily converted - as well as a number of caves that operate as stables at night (stinky). Apparently, a USAID report in the latter part of the twentieth century advised that Bedouins ought to be relocated despite being privy to historical rights - seems rather obvious where this mindset came from.

To profit from night visits, Petra by Night is offered three times a week for tourists to come see the main site (The Treasury/al Khazneh) after sunset along with some tea and music.There were candels - in paperbags - lit all through the walk and many lit at the site - the main monument that everyone sees upon their entrance. It was definitely worthwile (12JD), but having stayed until past sunset the second night - despite advisement that tourists ought to leave before sunset (but are only restricted from entering after six) - that was even better than the guided night tour. We practically had Petra to ourselves as we walked back in the remaining daylight. Once we reached the Siq - the tunnel-like, entrance way between high rock facades - it was almost pitch black so we pulled out our handy headlamps and meanandered back in peace; it would have been possible to go without lights but less so as new visitors. After finishing our pleasant walk, we decided that a taxi would be warranted for the hike back up to town. A bonus of speaking at least some Arabic and a willingness to follow the culture, it is quite easy to ensure you are not - completely - ripped off. Whereas taxi drivers will ask for up to 10JD for a ride into town, I have been asked for 3 or 5 as starting points with 2JD seemingly to be as low as they will go; however, getting to Petra is usually one (there are no metres here).

In terms of money, tour guides definitely profit financially from bringing tourists to buy souvenirs from shopkeepers. During one of our breaks, I watched as the shopkeeping we were beside paid the tour guide - I think in relation to how much his group bought. This is by no way forcibly done, all the shops want to sell and offer about the same things and prices. We were joined by a number of guides who had let their group "free" for the little time they had left. They were more than willing to share their stories, photographs, and interest in our lives. Where you do see the pressure to buy is from the younger Bedouin who stick jewerely on unsuspecting older women who eventually get so surrounded and adorned that they end up buying something...the kids and other sellers really know who to target. Which also means, I get left alone for the most part.

What you see in photos - I try to avoid looking at too many before any visit - is nothing in compared to what is actually on the ground. Everwhere you go there are caves, monuments, ruins, and designs. Oh and donkeys, goats, and rocks. Although the main groups only walk along the easily accessible "main avenue", which is definitely worth a viewing or two, as far as I went I never ran out of signs of (ancient) civilization or gorgeous geographical features. Overall, this was defintely worth a weekend - especially at 90 JD total without being a completely spendthrift. When leaving Petra, I am saddened to have to make my way back to a large, polluted city...oh and class. I am already looking for a time and/or excuse to come back; discover more trails and nooks; maybe take a Bedouin up on their invitation to dinner (by being less suspicious and wary, Western traits they tell me); and practice my cragging as my fear of heights seems to have greatly diminished!

Time to go find another minibus full of locals and wait for the "scheluded" departure - aka when it's full, we go.