Markaz al-laurat

Markaz al-laurat: the Language Centre at the University of Jordan where I am studying the Arabic Language for the spring semester (February - May 2014).

Time flies...when you realize you are already at the point in the semester when you need to worry about midterms and now finals! Although I recently read - well perused might be more accurate - an article that was saying that if you keep doing the same thing (i.e. living the same "humdrum" life) time will seem to "flyby" as your brain merely "loses track" of the same activity. However, if you change what you are doing - nothing particularly drastic - time will seem to move more leisurely. This phenomenon might explain why I felt as if I had so much more time while I was travelling in Spain and Morocco - and yes that's part of the reason there was no backlog of blog entries.

This week we ended up having a bunch of exams: reading & writing, grammar, listening, and speaking. It wasn't particularly amazing - results pending - but I think the majority of us would agree that this semester is less about acing our exams than it is about making improvements upon our skills. For some this is perfecting and adhering to all grammatical and formal language standards, for me this is not quite the case. Partially because grammar has never been my strong suit, in any language; but mainly because my main goal for coming to Jordan was to use the local resources - a.k.a local, native speakers who hopefully do not want to practice their English solely (ha!) - and environment to the fullest potential. As in many a yoga class, I set my intentions at the beginning of the semester, which were the following: read and write in Modern Standard Arabic (fousha) and speak in Levant dialect (amiya). Although these seem like two very different goals, they are nonetheless interconnected.

View of the Main Gate of the University of Jordan

One of the garden areas on campus

Studying outside in UofJ campus

Modern Standard Arabic (MSA) is what is taught to non-Arabic speakers through any university and many other organizations (there are those who specialize in dialect only as well). It is used by the media in both print and speech; however, newspapers come without "short vowels". For those who know anything about Arabic, this is a large handicap as words differ in meaning when even one of the short vowels is altered. Therefore not only do you need to be able to read basic words, but also decipher from context, which of the meanings it ought to be. MSA is not only "proper" Arabic (as English speakers might compare it to), it is exceedingly formal language - think legal terminology, or any other formal, professional jargon; the structure of scholars, intellects, and previous generations; and the awkwardness of speaking school-taught French (or whichever language you were taught in high school, but never mastered). Instead of saying "Hi, how's it going?", one typically sounds like "Hello my good sir, how do you fair on this fine day?", until you are able to pick up on dialect. That being said, there are connections between the two languages - at least here in the Levant (I can't say the same about other regions) - so with a little "translation" between the two, one can adapt their MSA Arabic into dialect. That is until you get to words like "go": in MSA "thahaba", in amiya "roh".

Example of the Language Centre classrooms

What the board usually ends of looking like during classes

Our class has had cake and other goodies more times than all the other ones put together!

Once I finally made my way to the University at the beginning of the semester, I was able to confirm my registration into the Centre; then came the headache-inducing parts. In order to confirm my registration into the Centre (my first teacher was very adamant you needed to be on the "official" list, despite our explanations), I needed to pay the tuition fees (~1800 USD); which shouldn't have been a major issue. However, when I tried to withdraw money from an ATM, I couldn't. After much stress (certain people can attest to my state), I managed to get the money with a Western Union transfer (to myself!) and going to one of the HSBC branches for three days in a row. Once I had acquired the funds, I need to go pay and then get a "student proof" signed; that latter I would need for a visa extension. Compared to Canada, registration is not a straightforward process - and definitely not online - as I went around to a variety of offices (in the same building, win!) to get various receipts, signatures, and stamps. At one point, I had to exchange my initial receipt for a different one. Thankfully by this time I had made enough friends that one of them was willing to point me in the right direction.

After all the running around, my student proof looks quite colourful.

After taking my placement test at the beginning of the semester - reading and writing exam on a computer, and oral one-on-one with professor - I ended up in level 3 (of 9). I had originally fretted I might be in level 1 or 2, but alas I didn't make it to level 4 (which I technically should have after studying Arabic at university). It took a few days for people to finally settle into their respective classes, there was lots of people moving up and down levels as the placement test was a good initially assessment, but it was definitely not completely accurate. I think this is due in part to the fact that regardless of level, each student is stronger or weaker in different areas. When I was doing my oral, placement test, the professor kept looking at my written score as I was unable to squeak out as many sentences as I should have been to be on par with my other score. Whereas others scored quite low on their written portion, but could speak quite well. Eventually our level was divided into two classes as we eventually grew to double our initial size.

Our class ended up being a decent mix of Korea (6), Swiss (1), Danish (1), Turkish (1), Spanish (1), Italian (1), Ukrainian (1), and British (1). It has been interesting during the semester as international news, outside of the Middle East was brought closer by having people from the affected countries in our class - for example the conflict in Ukraine, elections in Turkey, and ferry in Korea. Our main teacher has a good deal of experience and received many positive reviews from those who attended her fall semester class. It has been a pleasure for all of us to be her students as she pushes us further, but also is able to teach in a positive and motivational manner. We were all a little sadden when she had to be absent for a couple weeks in order to recover from surgery as our secondary teacher lacks experience, fails to comprehend our questions or opinions, and makes for a mundane, lackluster lesson to say the least. Overall, most students who come to the Language Centre seem to be disappointed in their instruction, it seems to be a hit-or-miss depending on the teacher.

Our group from level during our break between classes - Korea, Switzerland, and Italy represented. 

"Heart Attack" our health-conscious snack spot

After having a few turkish coffees during a study session

Sunday to Tuesday, we have class from 0900 - 1040 and 1100 - 1240, and on Wednesday and Thursday, we have class from 0900 - 1040 only. They vary from reading, talking, writing, and listening with some subjects being more interesting than others (e.g. magic and marriage weren't on the top of our wish list). Between class we go to the main gate - the university is "guarded" with dedicated gates for entry and exit with your student card (swipe system) - where we usually get a Turkish coffee and a snack. Drip coffee and coffee with milk are not common here, unless you're at a western (i.e. pricey) shop so I've gotten accustomed to a small, dairy-less, strong coffee with the grains at the bottom. Now that I've been drinking it for a while, I've almost weaned myself off the sugar too!

During student elections, the campus was covered in posters of all sizes and styles

In addition to our mandatory classes - absences allowed in small amounts (i.e. extra long weekends) - the Centre offers "clubs". Basically, theses are extra classes in the afternoon that professors share responsibility and focus on: dialect, grammar, and speaking. After testing out all the clubs, I settled on only taking the dialect class; although I could come and go as I please on a weekly basis. I really wish there were other clubs offered including calligraphy, culture, and religion as the other clubs are not always the most useful or well laid out.

Tre track of the sports complex

The outside of the University restaurant and the lawn in front of it. 

Sitting on the lawn one day when one of the stray cats (many, everywhere) decided to come hangout around me. 

Two samples of lunches at the school cafeteria. 

As I mentioned the University campus is fenced in with quite a few entry points that have varying levels of strictness; for example at the North Gate I use daily, I only needed to use my card during the student-elections week whereas at the Main Gate you almost always need it. Thankfully, during the first couple weeks of class, we were able to mumble our way through "markaz al-laurat" to get ourselves let in sans student card. The most exciting part of life on campus has been during the week preceeding student elections. They are taken very seriously and seem to entail a lot of fights and opposing sides. Not only were there posters all throughout the campus, but they were also handing out business cards and supporters wore pictures of their candidate around their necks. I ended up missing the actual election day as I went away to Petra, but from what I heard it was a quite intense day, as it is every year.

Within the confines of the campus, there are all the department buildings, plenty of Nestle coffee stands, a restaurant, snack bars, a library, a sports complex, and other amenities. We spend most of our time in the Language Centre, the restaurant, and the library. The restaurant doesn't offer a huge variety, but is very cheap (I think it is subsidized) and decent for lunch. It offers a selection including: hummus, salad, bread, dessert, yogurt, rice, vegetable stews, and meat. You can choose from whatever they are offering that day so I typically end up with yogurt, rice, and veggie stew, and share a combo of hummus, dessert, or meat. The library is an okay facility although there is much construction going on and not a lot of seats available, which is surprising as most students seem to hangout outside all day. Nevertheless, it does offer a quiet place to study. The Sports Complex is slightly disappointing as it is only open Sunday to Thursday 0800 - 1600, and it's facilities aren't well maintained or many. In any case, I have been playing squash with one of the German girls on a semi-regular basis, which is a good change of pace and rather fun. Outside of the buildings, there are quite a few trees and greenery (especially for Amman), wide walkways, and grassy areas to sit.

Main Library in the University of Jordan

One of the many study sessions in the library

View of the book  shelves in te library

Another example of study areas in the library

Compared to my semesters of 2013, this has not  been my most productive semester, but at least I initially spent a good deal of time studying. Unfortunately, that has fizzled out after the midway point and I am working on getting it back to make the most of the last month! I will still be taking some weekend and day trips as I want to make the most of my time here and join in on group trips that might be harder on my own.

Welcome to Jordan! - with lots of photos

First things first, despite being in Jordan, almost no one is "from" Jordan. Even those who are from Jordan, they are most likely not from Amman. It may seem like an odd scenario or concept, but when considered as one of the most stable and prosperous (relatively) Arab countries in the Middle East, it is easier to understand why so many Palestinians, Egyptians, and Syrians. In addition to those seeking safety, stability, and refuge there are also those who are (mostly) from the Gulf and quite obviously wealthy. Just as Jordan is a relatively well-off country, it is also a relatively progressive society and culture. What might be prohibited in a more conservative country - read, Saudi - is more accessible here. Despite being a relatively modern and urban city, tribal ties are still very strong and at the heart of individuals' identification and connections. Additionally, the population of Jordan has swollen in the past century with large influxes - continuing until now - from surrounding Arab nations that are or were in turmoil. The most prevalent case are Jordanian-born citizens who are Palestinian in heritage, but who most likely have never set foot in Palestine.

Coincidentally, the first person that I met arriving in Jordan was a bus driver who had fled from Palestine after 1967. His English was extremely good and he was very well spoken as well as genuinely welcoming. He helped me get my bus ticket and on the bus from the airport to downtown. It was definitely a genuine experience that included a segment on politics, Israel, the Occupation, and his misfortune. Unfortunately, I can no longer remember the details, but although he drove a bus he had been highly educated and employed before making the unwanted move to Jordan.

Even after being in Amman for some time now, almost everytime that I meet someone - a taxi driver, a shopkeeper - they are Palestinian or Syrian. I have yet to figure out what is the most appropriate response. This is especially true as almost all the Palestinians have never seen Palestine with their own eyes and unless there is a dramatic change in regional politics they will never have the chance to step foot in what they consider their homes. So not only does one refer to Israel as Palestine - unless you truly know with whom your speaking. One also ought not to too proudly or loudly state their past or future travels to Palestine as you are more privileged than they might ever be. However, if you are part Palestinian - preferably your father - then you are more than welcome to talk about what city or village your family is from, and maybe how long ago they left Palestine. Even if you speak no Arabic, have never stepped foot in the country, or meet your family - if it is in your blood, you are Palestinian. Despite all these seemingly oversensitivity, for what we - as outsiders - may consider, it is a tough subject as it hits home to family roots, tribal connections, and believed injustices.

For those of you who weren't following my every fleeting thought, Amman was not my first choice. Despite my interest and pension for the unstable and off-the-beaten track places and choices, the political landscape of the Middle East lessened the scope to which I would be willing to travel, and temporarily live. Initially, I had wanted to attend the University of Alexandria in Egypt, but as tensions had been cyclically mounting and elections were scheduled for this time frame I decided it was not worth the risk. Despite my typical less than stellar grades - well at least during the first few years of university - the aim of this semester was to focus on my learning of the Arabic language along with some cultural immersion and education; therefore, going somewhere that unstable and regulated was not the place for this time.

As has been the theme so far this year, I have taken a more relaxed approach to planning as some bewildered folks noted when I left in January. I think I've come to realise that despite having nothing booked or confirmed, I did have a mental 'road map' that guided my journals so far and I think will continue to do so for this year. In any case, rather than attempting to find an apartment via the internet, I settled for staying in a hostel downtown for an indefinite amount of time upon my arrival until I settled in and found a place. This turned out to be a quite wise move on my part, despite taking over a week to find suitable accommodation. During that period, I stayed at the Amman Tower Hostel which is located in the 'downtown' part of the city. Conveniently located between two busy and usually jammed roads and beside a mosque - daily call to prayers from the minarets at least five times a day can be loud and persistent at first. I stayed there for over almost two weeks, commuting to the University every day, which is in the north part of the city. Even though taxis are affordable compared to Western standard (a few dollars usually), I opted to take the bus - cheaper and more interesting.

The city is divided into very distinct neighbourhoods with their own vibes and specialities. Al-balad, Amman's downtown core, is nothing particularly stellar when compared to other cities both modern and ancient. The small area holds a small selection of ruins, many hotels and hostels, and a good number of shops and restaurants. During my stay at the hostel downtown, I had some great times with other travellers who were also staying in the hostel and travelling both long and short term. This included going to one of the few local bars, O'berg (pronounced like Auberge), which serves women alcohol and provides a very local vibe. Located down a small alleyway with snack shops and stores along the way. Once you clamber up the stairs, you enter a smokey, dimly-lit, small room with a bar and kitchen; tables tucked tightly together; and charcoal station for the arjeela. The decor is apt with photographs of Arab singers and artists who can also be heard crooning from the speakers. Although not the best grub, they offer "local" beer - Amsel that is produced in Jordan for export; argeela. water pipe or shisha; and a authentic environment with the swooning voices of Arab singers.

Closest to the downtown area is Rainbow Street which is a modern, cool-chic, expat-oriented street with lots of food options (generally pricier), artistic shops, and small niche stores. A little further away is abdali which offers a very large flea-market on Thursday and Fridays with a huge selection of used clothing and shoes, household items, and fresh produce. Starting at Rainbow Street and moving west are eight traffic circles used as reference points - get into a cab and try and use street names forget it, circles are critical for navigation. The main city malls are in Swefiyeh to the west, closer to the more affluent, residential and the modern, westernised areas. To the east, lies the less developed and more impoverished areas of Amman. I have only made a few ventures into this area and usually only because I didn't manage to get myself off the bus before we went wizzing to the "other side". Although noticing a lower level of wealth, I did not sense a greater sense of risk or insecurity - even after wandering along unknown roads at night until a taxi driver decided I needed a ride. North of most of the city is where the University of Jordan's campus is located along with lots of student housing.

Despite having described as seemingly distinct areas, the districts in Amman are sometimes overlapping and still cause confusion, especially as some names encompass a number of smaller districts. What I had not anticipated or particular enjoy is the sheer size of Amman. Compared to other cities that I have explored and visited, Amman has rapidly and expansively grown from the seven hills it originally occupied and now sits upon over 22 hills. Instead of being considered a city, it ought to be considered more of a metropolis similar to the GTA or the Lower Mainland in Canada with various cities having been incorporated into one large area.

On the subject of hills, they are everywhere. This is especially apparent when wandering the city and even more so after getting lost - usually after climbing up the wrong hill. It is not a city that is developed for pedestrians, most sidewalks, if existent, are crumbling, blocked by trees, or covered in refuse. Thankfully, most vehicles either dodge foot traffic or incessantly honk to warn you of their approach. The main means of transportation you ask, after personal vehicles, why taxis, bien sure. Compared to western countries, taxi fares are reasonable and made for average locals. Costing 2-3 JD for a decent trip through the city, 5 JD being the most I ever spent (northern to southern edges of the city), and starting at 0.25 JD - after ensuring that the meter is set before taking off! Biking is not really an option between traffic and terrain; mopeds seem to be limited to delivery drivers; donkeys are limited and I have not seen any horses; and walking is not a "thing". Buses are available and while I was commuting between the hostel and the university, I would take the bus. Normally, viewed as vehicles for the working class and rather unpleasant, I had mostly positive experiences riding the bus. In the beginning, I primarily took the cities buses as they didn't wait to be full and were more reliable - despite a lack of schedule and dedicated stops. I also benefited as my routes (I could choose from several) were not the most popular as some other buses were packed like sardines - once a bus drove off with a lady's ponytail dangle out of the door, there were that many people stuffed on the bus. However, on the way back to the hostel, catching cities buses seemed much more futile so I started taking the mini-buses. They are white, 12-18 seater buses that run along dedicated routes. Before leaving their starting point, they wait until they are full most of the times and if it's not a popular time will leave after a while, but it will cost more - fare depends on number of riders, when full 0.35 JD or 0.55 CAD. Learning the areas and circles is a definite asset as on a number of occasions I either missed my stop - flying off towards some other undesired neighbourhood - or was unable to clearly ask for where I wanted to go.

As with all my other city exploration, I walked a great deal throughout Amman often getting lost and having to descend and climb multiple hills, occasionally dragging my compatriots with me. Despite not being a "walkable" city, I have not had any negative experiences other than the normal staring - 1. it's cultural, 2. I'm foreign, 3. I'm female, and 4. I'm walking. Then again on one fine day, slogging to the bus "station" from a day at the market, a driver pulled over in front of me and said the equivalent of "come in" (tafadali) as I walked by his car. Apparently my provocative hiking pants, long sleeve shirt, scarf, runners, and multiple bags were good indicators that I was a prostitute; however, I feel as if the fact I was walking was probably the largest factor. Being responded to as a prostitute has been a common occurrence that has either dissipated as I have been in the same areas for a while or I have become accustomed to the interest.

Whether it be from hospitality, national pride, or friendliness, at every turn and encounter one is "welcomed" to Jordan even if you have been here for an extended period of time. As being welcomed to a place (e.g. Welcome to Canada!) and welcomed for something (i.e. thank you - you are welcome) are the same in Arabic, I have gotten somewhat over-welcomed by everybody. On the other hand, my iconic, Canadian usage of "sorry" as definitely been weened down to almost complete disusage.

In order to catch up for my blogs in Jordan, I have written an outline for the next six+ entries, which does not include new things from this point onwards. Therefore, I will be once again working on catching up on these entries with the most effort I can afford. Despite having travelled and lived in different places, the first month in Amman was definitely more overwhelming than most of my other experiences and since then I have felt as if I am perpetually trying to catch up or do everything. It has taken until March when I found a more balanced approach to my life in Amman, but compared to life on the road or back home is still much more demanding.

And now I should study.

Alex

Bus from the airport to the city.

Ikea (still in construction at this point)

View from my hostel room.

Great breakfasts included at Jordan Tower Hostel

My bunk at Jordan Tower Hostel

Chilling in the lobby with Pen and Melissa

Dinner at Hashem's - hummus, fattah, falafel, stuffed falafel, pita bread, sweet mint tea. Served on plastic chairs between two shops outside. 

Dinner at al-quds with Pen and Melissa - classy, turkish coffee time!

Our waiter at al-quds

Night out at O'berg

Arjeela & Amsel

Visiting the Roman Amphitheatre after dinner!

Enjoying the coziness of a taxi - five in the backseat (you can see my jeans and white top!).

View of Amman from one of my many walks on one of the many hills. 

Market in the East part of the city - view from a city bus (was working on getting back to the centre of town)

View of a city bus on my way to the University

Spain & Morocco Recap

Overall my trip through Spain and Morocco was successful and a good start to this year's travels; I am still somewhat unsure how I decided on those two countries. Most of my top desired countries tend to be more exotic and remote. Nonetheless, I greatly enjoyed my time and was able to see many new things.

For those who fretted over my apparent lack of planning - I would like to clarify that it was a lack of booking or securing, rather than planning - that I made it all through the entire trip without having to sleep on the sidewalk or beg for food. That being said things did not always go as planned; however, that was more due to things not being on schedule and the subsequent domino effect. What I did figure out is that with enough - in this case, not too much - money, it is always possible to find food, lodging, and transport; therefore, I tried to keep my fretting to a minimum when things weren't quite going as planned. A con to traveling alone is that when things go wrong, you are left on your own to cope. On the bright side, being a solo traveller means, you only need worry about yourself and can freely choose what to do with whom and when you will do said activity. Albeit, leaving no one to kick you in the butt when you may warrant a push or need some motivation. Despite going solo, I have yet to fell particularly lonely as there are always - almost - great people to meet and hang out with, either for a short time or a while. Thankfully, I can usually tell pretty quickly if I'm liking someone's vibe - negativity and pessimism need not apply.

When the flight took off from Ottawa and I left Canada, all I had were those flights leading me to Madrid. I had not booked a hostel -  I had not booked anything - and I had yet to secure my semester abroad. Compared to my typical need to plan, organize, and secure all the details beforehand, this departure appeared a little different. I did however have a plan in mind that outlined what my travels would entail, but free to follow any changes or opportunities that appeared. I have attached an outline of my year (that I made before I left Canada), which divides my year into three parts: leg 1, Spain & Morocco; leg 2: Arabic semester; and leg 3, primarily European travel. In any case, my plan for leg 1 did turn out according to my idea and I was able to book each upcoming city while I was finishing up in the previous one. Although this left for some tight bookings. Sometimes when made too close to my arrival date - i.e. the day or night before - the reservation would not go through so it would be as if I hadn't booked anything, usually a dorm bed. As I was travelling in the relative low season, I almost never ran into problems of overbooking. In Marrakech, I ended up moving to the hostels other place as when I extended my stay there were no longer any beds available.

I travelled from Madrid to Gibraltar, passing through Cordoba and Gibraltar - highlighting the Moorish influences, as well as the modern creations throughout. Gibraltar was beyond my expectations - I'm not sure what I had in mind other than monkeys, British roots, and local pride. It was an amazing experience to see the unique culture of Gibraltar as a true mix between the British, Spanish, and Moroccan influences. Seeing the apes up close - no fences or barriers - was definitely a highlight and makes me want to spend more time around them.

Of the entire trip, in part due to its difference from western countries and being the latter of the two parts, Morocco left a much larger impression. From the get go, I found Moroccans to be extremely friendly, generous, and welcoming. Despite the seemingly cold appearance, as soon as I smiled at women on the street, they would (mostly) break into huge smiles in return. Women for the most part wore kaftans - long dress or coat like outer wear with long sleeves and floor-length hems - with fleece pajamas underneath and slippers on their feet! It was definitely a common look throughout the country, especially in the more rural and traditional areas. Despite having studied Arabic previously, I found - and slightly panicked - that I could not understand their Arabic. Therefore, I relied on my French along with a few standard lines in Arabic - mostly, salam-a-lakum upon meeting someone or entering a shop. The shopping available throughout the country is most impressive: leather goods (bags & shoes), metal lanterns, ceramic cooking pots, and silver teapots galore! It was most tempting to fill up my bag - figuratively rather than literally as I had little room to start with - with all the beautiful, handmade goods. If there is anywhere that I want to return to in order to buy souvenirs and goods fine artistic designs, Morocco offers a delighful selection. Tastebuds not forgotten, Morocco offers a plethora of delectable dishes and drinks: cavity-inducing sweet mint tea, sizzling-hot tajines, and fresh fruit juices and smoothies. Oh and mostly maggot-free, fresh dates, figs, nuts, and mandarins!

When it comes to transportation, Moroccan streets and alleys are full of every type of contraption: taxis, buses, scooters, police, donkeys. The most impressive acrobatics is in the alleyways of city medinas - between the three-metre wide spaces there is store merchandizes and stands; local and tourist pedestrians, garbage and water drainage; cats and their corners; bicycles and scooters; and horses or donkeys with carts. To say the least, it can get quite clausterphobic, but despite persistant honking or metal clanging - i.e. "get out of the way" or sometimes simply "watch out" - flows quite smoothly without giving one a sense of danger. The skill and grace demonstrated by those weaving their way through the crowds either on moped or donkey is quite impressive with them only having to stop on occasion.

Packing for a year-long journey meant that I was packing for weight, convenience, and multi-usage. This also meant that I may have overestimated my Canadian hardiness and was left without a warm coat and waterproof shoes. I also had yet to master the technique of layering all the items I did have with me. Being chilly and damp are quite prevalent in my memories of Spain, especially as I remember when I was finally able to rejoice when my toes were not icecubes during the night. Planning ahead - this time, I will need to acquire a coat and boots for my remaining travels throughout the fall and winter, especially as I head towards the northern nations later this year.

In terms of my semester abroad, I contacted the school in Amman, Jordan while I was travelling in Morocco. I was no longer aiming for Alexandria due to the instability especially the potential with the upcoming elections. The reply from Amman was simple and easy - we cannot open the application you sent us (PDF), but show up for the registration day and we will finish the application process then. To be honest, my backup plan was to show up before the registration day and work on getting myself accepted - in person tends to wield much more power. Subsequently, I booked my flight to Amman once I had accepted that Egypt was too much of a gamble and their lack of response didn't give me any hope. I didn't want to secure a place to live before I arrived in the country so I booked a hostel in the downtown and would work on securing a room upon arrival. As I was nearing my trip and planning the semester, I hesistated to leave as I was greatly enjoying my time in Morocco and didn't want to leave it behind. However, an extremely different dialect and the desire to see more places, led me off to Jordan.

Flying from Morocco was relatively straightforward, expect initially they did not want to let me to go Jordan as I could not show a visa and they did not initially believe me that visas could be acquired upon arrival. Once I convinced the border control manager - a little less confidently than I could have - I was off towards Cairo for an overnight stay in the airport. Definitely nothing to rave about, I spent a relatively uneventful, but uncomfortable night in upright in a bright and busy hallway. I later noticed a section that would most likely have been quieter and with benches that I could have used as a bed, but that wasn't until the morning. The one slightly entertaining aspects of my night was after I had bought a small bottle of red wine and was drinking it slowly in an attempt to nod off - after pulling my toque down over my eyes. When I popped my toque up, I noticed that I received quite a few glances - to the bottle and then to me. No one said anything outright, but I could see a slight hint of a smirk in their looks. I was not particularly bothered and more concerned with being as comfy as possible.

This completes my entries on the first leg of 2014, which now opens up the chance for me to finish up and post my blogs for the first two months in Jordan. Let's hope by the time I finish my semester, I will be up to date!

Addendum

I forgot to include my final spending for 22 days in Spain, Gibraltar, and Morocco. The following does not include flights or insurance (all prices in CAD).

Total cost: 1456
Lodging: 419 (28.7%)
Food: 388 (26.7%)
Transport: 352 (24.2%)
Tours & Entrance Fees: 205 (14.1%)
Things & Souvenirs: 75 (5.2%)
Services (e.g. toilet): 17 (1.1%)

I was mostly conservative in my purchases but didn't sacrifice everything in order to spend the absolute minimum.

Photos

The departure gates in the Casablanca airport - was running late as I wanted to grab some (very very pricey) water before leaving!

One of the shop displays in the Cairo airport. 

Sitting in Cairo airport overnight...sweet dreams. 

My local (mini) bottle of wine (~13USD, worth it)

I couldn't find my game plan for this year so this will have to suffice until (if) I find the actually copy...